The recent Red Shirt demonstrations in Bangkok were centred in the Ratchaprasong area, a crossroads close to the now burnt out Central World Plaza.  At the heart of Ratchaprasong is the Erawan Shrine. Located just steps from the Chidlom skytrain station, the colourful shrine was built in 1956 to appease the evil spirits that were said to be dogging construction of the original Erawan Hotel (now replaced by the Grand Hyatt Erawan).

Once the shrine opened accidents that plagued the building site were said to have ceased. Dedicated to Brahma, the four-faced golden image at the shrine attracts thousands of devotees each day who light incense and make offerings of floral garlands.

Although closed to worshippers during the protests, the revered Erawan Shrine is once again accessible 24 hours a day. It is an excellent place to observe Thais in moments of quiet contemplation and also witness the grace and beauty of traditional Thai dance performed throughout the day for those who make a donation.

The history of the shrine, however, has not been all flowers and meditation. In 2006, a mentally ill man who vandalised the shrine was set upon by two street cleaners and brutally beaten to death. I remember at the time that the incident created outcry and condemnation from politicians for the act of vandalism but rather perversely not for the terrible act of murder.