Shan Tofu in Mae Sai
One of the joys of traveling in Thailand is discovering regional cuisine. By default, my first question when checking into a hotel or guesthouse is to ask the location of the morning and evening fresh markets. It’s here that you will get a flavour of local ingredients and delicacies.
In the northern town of Mae Sai (about 45 minutes drive from Chiang Rai) and surrounding towns, the influence of neighbouring Myanmar abounds at local eateries, stalls and mobile vendors. One of my favourites is khao furn, a dish that is popular in the Shan State where I believe it is called to hpu gyaw. It is a type of tofu made from the flour of yellow split peas and is central to Shan cuisine.
Cut from a soft block, the tofu is served with a variety of condiments to the diner’s personal taste such a pickled vegetables, beansprouts, a liquid made from tomatoes, roasted chilli paste, lime juice, to name a few. It can also be served in a large chunk and is often fried as a snack to accompany other dishes.
When in Mae Sai there are several places to try the dish, but I always keep my eye out for a lovely husband and wife couple who wheel their cart around, stopping here and there to sell this tasty dish.