The Thai Red Shirts turned out in Bangkok this morning for the first show of strength since the bloody crackdown by government forces in May. Several thousand gathered at the Ratchaprasong intersection to mark the fourth anniversary of the coup that ousted former PM Thaksin.

A shrine was also set up to honour those shot on the 19^th May this year when armed forces dispersed anti-government protesters.

The crowd was in good spirits, singing and chanting for the government to get out, with only the occasional skirmish with police when a few reds tried to block the road. The police have said they will allow the Red Shirts to stay at Ratchaprasong until 8 p.m. today. It seems to be an agreement that will be honour by the reds. When I jokingly asked a few demonstrators if they were here for the day or the next two months, they assured me it was only for the day.

The picture above shows a Red Shirt supporter holding up an image of Seh Daeng, a revered leader of the movement who was assinated in May by a sniper while being interviewed by a journalist.

 Several other demonstrations are going on around the country. There is a large gathering in Chiang Mai, a pro-Thaksin stronghold. There have also been reports that the Interior Ministry has called for counter demonstrations with some 50,000 supporters of the ‘Monarchy Defence Network’ taking to the street in several provinces.

As usual, there were plenty of colourful characters – literally – at the demonstration.

Of course, Thaksin also put in an appearance.

Divisions in Thai society are clearly as strong as ever. In all honesty, given the propaganda being churned out by the political machine, constant crackdowns on freedom of speech, and the censorship of over 113,000 websites (more than China), it’s hard to remain positive about Thailand’s democratic future.

This morning, in need of a distraction, I took a walk around the Ratchaprasong site in the heart of Bangkok’s main shopping district. The Red Shirts continue to make themselves at home. Despite a heavy military and police presence in the surrounding area they have failed to prevent protesters spreading further down the Ratchaprasong intersection and side streets. The streets below the skytrain and the walkways above are now home for hundreds of defiant Red Shirts. Barricades of tyres and razor wire block every entrance point. It’s hard to see how the area can be cleared without bloodshed, a fact that may be causing a delay in the long expected crackdown.

The shot above shows one of many protesters asleep on the pavement of what was one of Bangkok’s busiest shopping districts. The poster behind him is to raise awareness for the Governor’s ‘keep Bangkok tidy’ campaign.

The Red Shirt protests continue at Ratchaprasong and the rhetoric from both sides grows increasingly hard line. The last few days, however, have been more peaceful than usual. It’s hard not to believe that it is just the calm before a storm.

Today, a group of hardcore Red Shirts gathered behind the Silom- Radjadamri barricade – now reinforced with razor wire – and readied themselves for a move to another site within Bangkok – something that the government has said it will not allow.

It’s impossible to describe this motley crew as anything more than thugs. They have also been told by leaders to stop wearing red shirts so they can move around easier outside the main camp. Armed with staves, golf clubs and an assortment of other weapons they do little to help the genuine plight of the rural poor.

Meanwhile, at lunch hour on Silom Road a small but vocal demonstration was held by office workers and local business owners. Staunchly royalist and distinctly middle-class the group sang the national anthem while waving the Thai flag and condemning the Red actions.

As an outsider who has lived in Thailand for 12 years, it’s hard to watch the rift in society grow. My affection for this country runs deep. It has been generous to me, given me the love of my life and memories that will sustain me in my twilight years.

But I fear for Thailand’s future. Labels of red, yellow, pink and multi-coloured serve only to oversimplify the complex problems inherent in a hierarchical, corrupt and unjust society; problems that have never been addressed. The common thread running through all coloured flags is leadership motivated by self-interest, greed and power. In the end, as usual, it’s the common man who will lose out. Undoubtedly order will soon be restored by force but the division in society could take decades to heal.

Last night the situation turned nasty and blood was spilled with several grenade attacks in the Silom Road area. One person was killed and many injured. The attacks are suspected to have been carried out by hardcore elements within the Red Shirt camp. Over the past few weeks there have been many grenade attacks across the country. Last night also saw running street battles between Red Shirts and the so-called pro-government ‘multi-coloureds’.  

After the trouble had died down, the Red Shirts sat atop their barricade and kept a lookout for further attacks by ‘multi-coloureds’ or the military.

The army was on high alert, cordoning off Silom Road, setting up blockades, and shutting down sections of the BTS skytrain and MRT underground. Eventually the trouble fizzled out but many people believe that because of the escalating violence and further disruption to the city the long-expected crackdown by armed forces is now inevitable.  

In the early hours of this morning, a large contingent of police lined up in front of the barricade but eventually stood down without confrontation. Minor demonstrations against the Red Shirts took place throughout the day.

Red Shirts remain alert at the barricade and have been told not to drink and remain vigilant. Guards with binoculars are on constant lookout for the arrival of armed forces. Oil has also been poured on the road in front of the defensive barrier.

Tension is running pretty high in Bangkok at the moment with the redshirts continuing to defy calls to abandon the city centre site they have occupied for several weeks. A barricade of sharpened bamboo poles erected at the Silom-Radjadamri Road intersection is growing daily as car and truck tryes are piled against it. Bricks and assorted rubble has also been stockpiled for use against the military when the expected crackdown begins.

Tension is running pretty high in Bangkok at the moment with the redshirts continuing to defy calls to abandon the city centre site they have occupied for several weeks. A barricade of sharpened bamboo poles erected at the Silom-Radjadamri Road intersection is growing daily as car and truck tryes are piled against it. Bricks and assorted rubble has also been stockpiled for use against the military when the expected crackdown begins.

Last night a group of government supporters staged a boisterous protest in front of the redshirt defences, provoking the occasional violent skirmish that put the soldiers on edge. Several units mobilised and lined up in Silom Road ready for action. Many, no more than teenagers, looked extremely apprehensive.

Despite some within the government saying that a peaceful resolution could still be found, Col Sansern Kaewkamnerd, spokesman for the Centre for the Resolutions of Emergency Situations, warned protestors to leave the area or face decisive action. Tonight the situation remains extremely uneasy.