I’ve been trying to take photographs at Wat Phra Kaew for a while but every time I go it is swarming with coach-loads of tourists.  On two occasions I have simply turned back and promised to return when it is less busy; something that it never seems to be.

I even tried to seek assistance from the TAT, the terribly unhelpful Tourist Authority of Thailand, to see if I could be allowed in before or after opening hours. Although the TAT is extremely good at wasting money on large glitzy PR events and mega FAM trips for foreign media, it seems that when it comes to something useful, the answer is usually a resounding ‘no’ – assuming you are lucky enough to even get a response to your email enquiry.  So, armed with a camera and a high degree of intolerance to mass tourism, I endeavoured to make Wat Phra Kaew appear a serene place that is seldom visited.

Of course, there is a good reason why it is on every itinerary. It is a simply stunning temple…just don’t expect to have a relaxed and contemplative experience. Being shoulder-barged out of the way by a Korean tourist desperate to be photographed imitating one of the sculptures is more likely…

Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the nearby Grand Palace are highlights of any visit to Bangkok. The compound has over 100 buildings, golden spires and glittering mosaics.

The temple dates back to the founding of Bangkok in 1782, and was built early in the reign of King Rama 1. It is Thailand’s most sacred temple and houses a 70 centimetre Emerald Buddha. The golden robe draped around the Buddha image is changed three times each year by King Bhumibol.

Today, Wat Phra Kaew still serves as a centre for all religious rites pertaining to the State and monarchy.

The easiest way to get to Wat Phra Kaew is to go by boat from the pier at Saphan Thaksin. Alight at Tha Chang pier and walk the short distance to the temple. Entry is 350 baht. Thais are free of charge.