I recently spent a rain-soaked weekend in the eastern Thai town of Chanthaburi.

It’s a pleasant provincial town with more than its fair share of beautiful old buildings which were built by Vietnamese immigrants in the 1920s.

Most visitors to Thailand pass through without stopping, en route to nearby Trat,  the ferry point for hopping over to Koh Chang. This is a shame because it has plenty to offer those with an interest in food, history and local culture. Just try and avoid a weekend of almost constant rain…

The street with the oldest community, the most interesting architecture, runs through the heart of town along the riverfront. Once bustling businesses here are now struggling to make ends meet buta few have been given a new lease of life as bars and cafes – a trend that is likely to continue if the town can attract more weekend visitors. You can still catch timeless moments such as men playing what appears to be a Chinese version of backgammon, too absorbed in play to let lunch interrupt.

Almost without exception, I never take breakfast in a hotel, preferring instead to eat locally after my ritualistic wander around the morning market (or nibble my way around the market).

There’re a few old style noodle shops in the riverfront area selling excellent keuy jap rolled noodles in a deeply flavoured stock.

The morning and evening fresh markets are worth checking out and you’ll see a few surprising local delicacies including pickled jellyfish.

While in Chanthaburi I stayed at comfortable Kasemsarn Hotel, a five minute walk from the river and the market.