I flew down to Kuala Lumpur with Malaysia Airlines. It was nice to see a recent article of mine in their inflight magazine, ‘Going Places’. Thanks to editor, Vivian Chong, it is certainly one of the best inflight reads around at the moment.  My feature was on the market town of Pakse in southern Laos. Here’s a scan of the opening page of the five page spread.  If you want to know more about Pakse and are not flying with Malaysia Airlines in January, you can pick up my book, ‘Enchanting Laos’ online or at all good bookshops or have a look at pictures in the Portfolio.

Asian nations are notorious for their disregard of architectural heritage. From Beijing to Bangkok, KL to Singapore, beautiful old buildings have never stood in the way of progress.

Until recently Penang was destined to make the same mistakes but commonsense prevailed and the island’s past is now proving to be its biggest tourist attraction.

Described by UNESCO as “a unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia,” George Town was awarded the coveted World Heritage status in 2008. It was a moment when lovers of colonial-era architecture breathed a sigh of relief, optimistic for a future that would see a halt to the further deterioration or destruction of the island’s famous godowns, shophouses and mansions.

Although by no means the saviour of every old building, the new status put George Town and Penang firmly in the spotlight and was a huge boost for tourism. In Penang, the future is now history.

I’ve visited Penang on many occasions, exploring its many fine buildings. On a recent visit, however, I wandered the streets taking pictures of a few run down gems that ooze character. One of the best ways to discover George Town’s history is on foot. Most hotels and restaurants offer visitors a free map of the ‘Heritage Trail’, a leisurely stroll into the past that takes you down some of the town’s most historic streets with cafes and art galleries to enjoy.

Just a quick reminder that my books have been released in Europe. They were commissioned by John Beaufoy Publishing in the UK as part of the ‘Enchanting Asia’ series. The hardback Thai edition is co-published with Asia Books. This brand new ‘Enchanting Asia’ series are pictorial visitor guides showing the main cultural attractions that a tourist visiting for a week or so might expect to see.

 The 190 images in each book are accompanied by an introductory text with an overview of the history, geography, culture, festivals, food and so on. The second section is of images with extended captions. Here in Asia the books are available in Asia Books throughout Thailand and Monument Books in Laos, Cambodia and Mynamar. In Europe and the USA they are available at all good bookshops and online at Amazon. They are the perfect Christmas gift!

I am currently working on Enchanting Myanmar, a project that I am particularly excited about as it is the most fascinating country in Southeast Asia.

On my last few visits to Myanmar it has been clear to me that there is a renewed sense of optimism within the country. The photo below was catpured in Yangon and illustrates this beautifully. Just a year ago, such a scene would have been unthinkable.

I have been visiting Myanmar for the past 15 years, regardless of the political climate, traveling extensively in both urban and remote areas. I always objected to being lectured to by politicians as where I should not travel, always opting for personal experience and direct engagement with locals over taking the advice of sanctamonious wankers like Blair. If, as an individual, you were to make judgments as to where you should or should not travel based on government action, the USA and the UK would have been high on the list of places to avoid for decades.

During my recent visit to Myanmar I noticed a large increase in the number of tourists, particularly from Europe, and a tour operator I talked to said that next year they expected a leap in arrivals. Of course, this is all dependent on the continued thaw in relations with Europe and America. But I say visit regardless. The people are as warm and welcoming as you could ever wish to meet…and yes, they want you there.

Travel another couple of hours up the Lemro River from Mrauk U and you’ll enter the lower reaches of the Chin State. Most of this mountainous area is currently off limits to travellers but a handful of ethnic villages can now be visited with a guide. The main attractions for tourists, in addition to the outstanding natural beauty, are the ethnic Chin women who sport impressive facial tattoos.

In most villages there are only two or three women remaining with the distinctive tattoos as the tradition is said have died out. I hope to be able to get permission to explore deeper into the Chin State at a later date and see if this is true or not.

The women are very welcoming as they don’t receive too many visitors yet. However, Myanmar’s tourist industry is on the verge of a boom and I suspect these lovely women will soon tire of the intrusion.

The ladies told me that they were about 12 years old when the tattoo ritual took place and the process lasted for three days. Reasons given for the practice vary but the most common explanation is that it was done to make the young girls less attractive to other tribes and prevent them being kidnapped. All agree, however, that the process was extremely painful to endure with even the eyelids being tattoo with the needle and dye extracted from a plant.

There are occasions when I must admit to being a reluctant photographer and upon meeting the Chin women, I experienced one of those moments.  Despite being told that they had no objection to me photographing them, I think I would have preferred just to sit and talk rather than shove my lens in their face. Nevertheless I had a job to do. I was also made to promise that I will try and get a picture to one of the ladies which I intend to do.

The former capital Rakhine State in western Myanmar (Burma), Mrauk U – pronounced Mror Oo – is an atmospheric town and home to many beautiful ancient temples. It is reached following a 6 hour boat journey from Sittwe. Although the area currently welcomes few tourists that will soon change and won’t be too long before an airstrip opens to cut out the boat trip.

The town and surrounding countryside is scattered with temple ruins, many of which are still used by local people and monks.

I was lucky enough to be there on the night of the full moon, always a special time to be at a temple in Myanmar, and get some nice shot of monks relaxing as the sun set.

You can see more images in the Portfolio section.

I’ve just returned from another trip to Myanmar. Travel within the country is pretty demanding as the infrastructure has suffered from many years of neglect, but the rewards for travelling here are great. If I could only travel to one country over the next decade it would be Myanmar. At every turn there is another fabulous photo opportunity.

Over the next few days I’ll be posting images from several destinations, starting with the magnificent Golden Rock.  Also known as Kyaik-htiyo, the Golden Rock is one of Myanmar’s most sacred Buddhist sites.

Located around three hours drive east of Yangon, it is a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists from all over Asia who come to pray and rub gold leaf on the precariously perched rock.

 As with many sites of pilgrimage, getting there requires effort. A nail-biting truck ride takes you halfway up the mountain, and the rest of the steep climb is done on foot. If you want to experience both sunset and sunrise, make sure you stay at the hotels at the top – just a 10 minute walk from the actual site.

Since Aung San Su Kyi’s release, Myanmar and Yangon  has been put  firmly in the travler’s spotlight. Yangon is one of my favourite cities in Southeast Asia and with the current mood of optimism for the future, there’s never been a better time to explore the country’s enchanting former capital.

Yangon is an extremely pleasant city to wander around with a camera – a visual feast of imagery just waiting to be captured. Here’s a few street scenes from my last visit.

Visa on arrival is no longer available so if you are planning a trip, make sure you apply in advance at your nearest Myanmar embassy.

Hotel offerings in Yangon are rapidly increasing and the quality is excellent. Highly recommended is the Traders Hotel by Shangri-la. Located in the heart of the city within minutes walking distance of the Sule Pagado and the famous Scott Market, 242-room Traders Hotel offers value for money, comfortable rooms and suites, and Club Floor accommodation, all with impressive views across Yangon. Service is outstanding and the staff extremely helpful. Guests also benefit from a satisfying buffet breakfast of local, Indian and western cuisine at the Traders Cafe. Traders Hotel is located at 223 Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon. Tel: (95 1) 242828. Visit the website at www.shangri-la.com

I am sure it could be said that my postings are infrequent and when they do appear are distinctly lacking in words. The truth is I’ve never really got with the blogging thing. And the reason is simple; I work for a living. I have always considered irrepressible blogging to be a sure sign that someone has too much time on their hands.

The reason for the scarcity of postings is that for the last few months I have been travelling the length and breadth of Laos, Thailand and Cambodia taking pics for books. Well, the fruits of my labours, words and images, are soon to surface in a bookshop near you…and on the web.

The books were commissioned by John Beaufoy Publishing in the UK as part of the ‘Enchanting Asia’ series. The hardback Thai edition will be co-published with Asia Books.

This brand new ‘Enchanting Asia’ series are pictorial visitor guides showing many of the main cultural attractions that a tourist visiting for a week or so might expect to see. The 190 images in each book are accompanied by an introductory text  with an overview of the history, geography, culture, festivals, food and so on. The second section is of images with extended captions.

Here’s an overview from my forthcoming book, ‘Enchanting Laos’.

‘Few countries conjure up such a sense of mystery and intrigue in the traveller’s mind as mountainous, landlocked Laos. Regarded as Southeast Asia’s sleepy backwater for many years, Laos’ communist government ensured that the country remained closed to the outside world. Unconcerned by neighbouring Thailand’s dash for modernity, Laos resolutely moved at its own pace. When the door was finally eased open for travellers in the early 90s, it revealed a beautiful country with a fascinating culture and an ethnically diverse population. Today, Laos is well and truly awakening from its slumber. The capital, Vientiane, bustles with renewed energy, but many of Laos’ attractions lie beyond the capital, where the rural population still ekes out an existence as subsistence farmers, fishermen, market traders and merchants. For many in the countryside, little has changed, and that is part of Laos’ enduring appeal for visitors.’

Here in Asia the books will be available in Asia Books throughout Thailand and Monument Books in Laos, Cambodia and Mynamar from November 4^th 2011. Of course they will also be available in Europe and the USA at all good bookshops. You can also order online at Amazon. They are the perfect Christmas gift!

I am currently working on Enchanting Myanmar, a project that I am particularly excited about as it is the most fascinating country in Southeast Asia.

The website has been sadly neglected of late due to book commitments but all Thai images were sent to the publisher today. Now I just have to finish Laos and Cambodia editions…and am rushing off to Phonsavan in Laos tomorrow morning for a few days.

Something I should have posted a few weeks ago are snaps from the annual Poi Sang Long Festival, held in the northern Thai province of Mae Hong Son, one of my favourite parts of the country.

In late March or early April, Poi Sang Long takes place in towns and villages all over Mae Hong Son province. The Buddhist ordination ceremony is part of the Shan or Tai Yai tradition and was brought to Thailand by settlers from neighbouring Myanmar. 

During the event known as the Festival of Precious Gems, young boys are ordained as novices and spend time studying Buddhist doctrine. A colourful spectacle to witness, it is one of the most delightful festivals in the country.

On the first day of the four day ceremony, the boys have their hair shaved off at the temple and are then bathed and anointed with consecrated waters. The following day they are dressed in brightly coloured clothes and paraded through the town as sang long— precious gems.

I witnessed event in the town of Mae Hong Son but on a trusty dirt bike also managed to get to a Tai Yai village right up against the Myanmar border where 50 young boys were being prepared for the ordinations. It was a truly fabulous day.

While in the area I was able to visit the wonderful Phen, owner of the Little Eden Guesthouse, and the north’s best trekking guide. She has a beautiful place about 60 kilometres before Mae Hong Son and she is a great host. One of the joys of staying here, apart from Phen’s company and the lovely garden setting, is the menu of regional Shan food cooked up by two young Tai Yai girls. If you are traveling in the province, make a date to stay at Little Eden Guesthouse.

More Poi Sang Long images can be seen in the Thailand Gallery.

Stay tuned for infrequent posts and lame excuses.