Sometimes I think given half the chance I would simply hang out in the fresh markets of South East Asia and let my photography focus on the details. You may recall that I touched on this topic before when I visited Cambodia last year in the post Finding Beauty in Detail. Alas, magazine editors seem less enthusiastic about an old rice sack covered in fish heads than they should be. But what the hell.

This handful of images is from my recent visit to Myanmar. Wandering around the street markets in Yangon is like walking into a painting, a canvas brushed with colours from Gauguin’s palette and more than a touch of Dali’s surrealism.

Speaking of Cambodia, following the succes of ‘Enchanting Cambodia’ it seems like a second book on the country is in the pipeline. This time, with a more comphrensive text and more photos so I expect to be spending a considerable amount of time there this year.

On my last few visits to Myanmar it has been clear to me that there is a renewed sense of optimism within the country. The photo below was catpured in Yangon and illustrates this beautifully. Just a year ago, such a scene would have been unthinkable.

I have been visiting Myanmar for the past 15 years, regardless of the political climate, traveling extensively in both urban and remote areas. I always objected to being lectured to by politicians as where I should not travel, always opting for personal experience and direct engagement with locals over taking the advice of sanctamonious wankers like Blair. If, as an individual, you were to make judgments as to where you should or should not travel based on government action, the USA and the UK would have been high on the list of places to avoid for decades.

During my recent visit to Myanmar I noticed a large increase in the number of tourists, particularly from Europe, and a tour operator I talked to said that next year they expected a leap in arrivals. Of course, this is all dependent on the continued thaw in relations with Europe and America. But I say visit regardless. The people are as warm and welcoming as you could ever wish to meet…and yes, they want you there.

Since Aung San Su Kyi’s release, Myanmar and Yangon  has been put  firmly in the travler’s spotlight. Yangon is one of my favourite cities in Southeast Asia and with the current mood of optimism for the future, there’s never been a better time to explore the country’s enchanting former capital.

Yangon is an extremely pleasant city to wander around with a camera – a visual feast of imagery just waiting to be captured. Here’s a few street scenes from my last visit.

Visa on arrival is no longer available so if you are planning a trip, make sure you apply in advance at your nearest Myanmar embassy.

Hotel offerings in Yangon are rapidly increasing and the quality is excellent. Highly recommended is the Traders Hotel by Shangri-la. Located in the heart of the city within minutes walking distance of the Sule Pagado and the famous Scott Market, 242-room Traders Hotel offers value for money, comfortable rooms and suites, and Club Floor accommodation, all with impressive views across Yangon. Service is outstanding and the staff extremely helpful. Guests also benefit from a satisfying buffet breakfast of local, Indian and western cuisine at the Traders Cafe. Traders Hotel is located at 223 Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon. Tel: (95 1) 242828. Visit the website at www.shangri-la.com

While in Yangon, this scene caught my eye. A monk, who has obviously not quite managed to shake of his desire for wealth and the material world, is choosing his lottery ticket while standing next to a woman with a Mickey Mouse umbrella.

Visit the Portfolio for more images of Myanmar.

I have just returned from  Yangon where I was taking a few snaps for a book I am working about Myanmar’s many tourist attractions. It was great to be back in the country which is one of the most beautiful and photogenic in the region.

Whenever is on my schedule, I always find time to make a trip to the Shwedagon Pagoda. The shot above was taken in a shop selling Buddha images on the street leading up to the temple’s east entrance.

Right now the country is in the middle of the rainy season. It’s a time when you can capture a very special atmosphere at the temple.

The temple has a truly magical ambience and it is easy to spend two or three hours there quietly observing and photographing. It is essential to pay at least a couple visits: one in the early morning and one in the late afternoon and evening. The quality of light and the gold of the pagodas is constantly changing and patience is always rewarded.

There are some particularly beautiful Buddha images surrounding the many small zedis at the temple.

Monks at the temple can be seen meditating or preaching to visitors. They also enjoy talking to foreigners and are curious to know what we think about the country. I had to smile when one said to me ‘in the past, when I was a human being, I was a tour guide.’

 See can see more images in the Portfolio section here.

Continuing the foodie theme, here’s a couple of shots of street eats in Yangon.

Burmese food is an intruiging mix of Thai, Chinese and Indian influences, resulting in a distinctive cuisine that is still largely unknown outside the country. To be honest, eating street food in Myanmar is a risky affair as the standard of hygiene is diabolical but there are some excellent local restaurants around.

Here’re a few shots taken in the markets showing women and children with the distinctive tanaka face powder.

Burmese people are some of the most welcoming and friendly you could ever hope to meet. Wander around the vibrant markets and every glance or tentative inquiry is greeted with a capacious smile and a handful of playful words shared with neighbours.

In the early morning and late afternoon, side streets are transformed into a canvas brushed with strokes of violent colour reminiscent of Gauguin’s palette. Squatting among nests of verdant green produce traders draw customers as eager for gossip as they are for fresh produce and a good deal. The atmosphere of markets in Myanmar is intoxicating. The lips of young girls offer thick smoky smiles whilst gently holding slender green cheroots and old ladies dispense ‘cure all’ herbal remedies. 

A raucous laugh may reveal a flash of gold proving that in Yangon it really does pay to put your money where your mouth is, or  betel stained teeth from years of habitual chewing.

Each woman’s face, cheeks washed with pale yellow powder extracted from the bark of the tanaka tree, exerts a mesmerising glow – smears of light illuminating sun-blessed skin. The markets of Myanmar are a sight for sore eyes; crowded and chaotic but never claustrophobic.

Tanaka wood is sold in the markets. It is rubbed on a grinding stone with a little water to extract it and then brushed on the cheeks, neck and arms.

Tanaka is used a beauty product but also as a sunscreen and skin softener. These days blocks of pre-ground powder and soaps are also available.

I’ll post some shots of markets at a later date.

Here’re a few shots taken in Yangon last week of trains, rickshaws and people in them.  

Traffic in Yangon is light considering the population is around 4.5 million. This is due to tight restrictions on the importation of vehicles. Most cars and buses are Japanese imports from the 1980s such as Nissan Sunny Super Saloons and Toyota Corollas that have seen better days.

Even prices for a battered car are very high and can only be afforded by the well off. There are no motorcycles at all as they are said to cause too many accidents and were outlawed in the city last year.

The majority of people in Yangon use the circular line train, bus, unmetred taxi, trishaw, bicycle, or simply walk. Of course, all this makes it a very pleasant city to get around.

The train in Yangon is one my favourite travel experiences in any Southeast Asian city, taxis are dirt-cheap, trishaws are a lot of fun, and walking around Yangon with a camera, a joy. In fact, all things considered, Yangon’s traffic policy is something that most cities around the world could do with implementing…although as the owner of a Triumph Bonneville T100 I might have to take issue with the bit about banning motorcycles!

You don’t have to be in Myanmar long before it becomes apparent that the locals love chewing betel nut. Here’s a section from my book, The Traditional Ceramics of South East Asia on the topic to accompany a few recent pictures. More shots can also be viewed in the Myanmar Gallery.

The chewing of betel nut in Myanmar is still prevalent through the country and popular with men and women alike. On almost every street corner sellers stand behind their counters preparing small wraps of the mildly stimulating mixture. Mobile vendors also walk the streets with wooden trays around their necks, each well stocked with the essential ingredients.

Between friends and visitors a welcome is often extended in the form of these small emerald-green packets – the ‘local chew’. Stained orange lips and teeth as well as the ubiquitous rust-coloured splats on the pavements are all signs of betel chewing. The nut itself which is responsible for the trademark orange staining is from the areca palm while the leaf in which it is wrapped comes from the piper betel vine.

The contents of the betel chews vary according to personal taste. The traditional mixture in Myanmar consists of a betel leaf smeared with slaked lime paste (calcium hydroxide), a few slithers of betel nut and some tobacco leaves. This mixture is generally the choice of men.

For those who prefer a richer taste a variety other ingredients can be added including rice liquor, cloves, cumin seeds, cardamom and the edible nut from a huge seed known locally as gon nyin. This particular mixture is enjoyed by both men and women.

In Yangon, the golden magnificence of the Shwedagon Pagoda pierces the sky with a pinprick and a prayer confirming Myanmar as the jewel in Southeast Asia’s crown. It is impossible not to be moved by the beauty of this incredible temple.

Located on a hill in the centre of Yangon, the Shwedagon Pagoda can be accessed by a stairway at one of four entrances.  For those who cannot manage the climb there is also a lift at one entrance. At least two visits are required; one at daybreak and another at night. The temple is open from 4a.m. until around 10 p.m. and the entrance fee is $6.

Once inside I prefer to wander around on my own but there are plenty of freelance guides available if you are interested in finding out the history of the temple.

Apart from seeing the stunning chedis, fine architecture and Buddhist imagery, a visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda is also an opportunity to witness locals in moments of prayer.

Travel to Myanmar still remains a controversial topic in the West and it is clear that boycotts have left Myanmar’s tourist industry on its knees. During my two hour morning visit I did not see a single foreigner at the temple.

Without doubt Myanmar is run by a deeply objectionable bunch and their days are hopefully numbered, but anyone who has lived in Asia for any length of time will realize that poking them with a stick is no way to foster positive change.

I have visited Myanmar on many occasions for matters of research, as well as relaxation, travelling extensively in both urban and more remote areas. Regardless of the political climate I will continue to do so. I have yet to meet anyone within Myanmar who resented my presence or thinks I should stay away; quite the opposite in fact. The locals are delighted to meet foreigners.  If, as an individual, you were to make judgments as to where you should or should not travel due questionable government action, right now the USA and the UK would be pretty high on the list of places to avoid.

If you do visit Myanmar, and I see no reason why anybody should refrain from doing so, make the effort to engage with its people at all levels. Look beyond the politics to the individual.